Culture, Religion and Race

Kati just told me that she was concerned about looking like an American tourist, thinking that we would be a target for crime, being taken advantage of, etc.  Turns out, it’s just the opposite.

Radical Muslims target Israelis, not tourists.  I actually had a jew ask me why I was not afraid to have my tattoo for fear of being mistaken as a jew and targeted!

Dress:  Most of what you read about having to cover up and dress modestly is not true.  There are a few places you cannot enter without being properly covered, the only ones we found were churches, the Western Wall, and the garden of gethsemane (because of the church there.)

Safety:  The only place we did not feel safe was in and around the Old City of Jerusalem.  Everywhere else, we felt safer than in the States (no joke).  We saw no sign of theft or crime.  Cars and doors are often left unlocked, people leave stuff on the beach no one touches any one else’s stuff (that was our experience).  I mistakenly left my fannie-pack with my wallet, cards, phone and car keys on a beach lounger and freaked out thinking it was gone, but it was not.

Arabs:  We met three arab men (at different times in Jerusalem) who expressed their disgust with the media, and the hype of division and violence, wanting to just be able to co-exist with Christians, Jews, and anyone.  This, is NOT, however the standpoint of the Arab media, or the radical (religious) Muslims, of which there are MANY.

Arab owners of shops and restaurants are very friendly, hospitable, and a joy to deal with, but they cannot be trusted.  Lots of folks don’t understand the cultural differences of how it is acceptable to them to lie if it benefits them.  For this reason an Arab boy mis-led us to a dangerous part of the city during riots, and charged us money to do so!  For this reason, cab drivers told us that places we wanted to see were closed when they were not, to entice us to have them drive us elsewhere.

Muslim Arab shop owners will gladly charge you 300% of the value of an item if they can.  You will be told “No charge for looking!”, “You are my first customer”, “I will give you the best price”, and other forms of flattery, and they will make you feel loved while they love taking your money.

When an attraction is closed, they will occupy a site and pretend to be a guide.  They may hand you a 3-inch section of olive branch, and then demand 10 NIS for it because “that is how they earn a living”.

Arabs in the Christian Quarter, however, seem to charge a fair price, discourage bargaining, and not be pushy as salesmen.  For this reason, I recommend shopping in the Christian Quarter.

Jews:  This was the most dis-heartening thing for me.  The religious spirit and prideful demeanor of the native orthodox jews makes it darn near impossible to communicate with them, because they won’t even look you in the eye.  I caught a glimpse of their worship, which is joyful, enthusiastic, and energetic, but only among themselves.  I almost envied their ability to “let go” and worship with total abandon, until I remembered how we do it at Global River!

On the other hand, the nicest person we met was Michael, who was about 75 years old, and an orthodox jew from Florida.  He had an amazing perspective of the grace of God in his own life, and was full of joy, and sung us songs as we walked with him through the old city because he was helping us find things for no charge!

Sabbaths, holidays, and outages:  We managed to arrive, stay and leave Israel during more holidays than the law should allow (thank you, Neil!).  The Muslims shut down on Fridays, the Jews on Saturdays, the Christians on Sundays, and the Jews on all the extra Sabbaths that go along with the high-holidays we were there for.  I think there were about four work days during our two-week stay.  This can make it very difficult to find things that you need, like people to check you in, food, and other things that you forgot to pack.

On the other hand, what a lesson we can learn about rest, celebration, family, priorities, and keeping work in it’s place.  America is always open because it is the land of (economic) opportunity.  I feel like we are missing a majorly beneficial component of life for not keeping the Sabbath.

Knowledge:  Don’t assume that Jews and Muslims are well-educated about their belief systems.  They have very strong opinions and beliefs, but when you get into an old-testament discussion with most Jews, you will find yourself on the teaching end, if you are a mature American Christian.  (Just don’t make the same assumption about wisdom!)

Advice:  So in hindsight (as I’m sitting in the airport going home), I say pack all your American T-Shirts, sharpen up your bargaining skills, be bold in your interactions with people.  They are not a shy people.  Leave your pride and opinions at home, and pray for the humility to not judge, and to honor everyone you speak to, Jew, Arab or Christian.  Be willing to allow God to tweak your belief system and “raise you up above the systems of Religion in this world”.

Driving in Israel

Wow,  My wife and I were discussing the pros/cons of driving vs being part of a tour.  Driving definitely adds a lot of stress to your trip, but it provides freedom of all sorts, and totally eliminates the moo-factor of existing in large groups of headset-and-hat-wearing-tourists.  We loved the freedom of seeing so much of this amazing country at our pace.  Having said that, here are the challenges you will face, and if you can’t avoid them, at least you can expect them!

  1. Car rental:  A friend recommended Eldan.  It was right there with Alamo and Thrifty.  We paid right around $500 for two weeks for our 4-door sedan with a spacious trunk.  It cost about $65 (US) to fill the tank from empty, and we did that about 4.5 times.
  2. GPS:  If you have a Garmin, you need to order a maps SD card online well in advance of your trip.  This can cost $80-$120.  Your cell phone is capable of doing what you need, if you set yourself up with data when you get there.  If you rent a GPS with your rental, they will charge $15-20/day for your GPS–not worth it, and there is no Walmart to pick one up!  Use Waze instead of Google Maps!  Waze is more difficult to use, and displays in Hebrew (on my droid), but it speaks to you in English, and won’t lead you through closed areas (we learned this the hard way!).  Google Maps works great, but will not keep you out of trouble.
  3. Speed Traps:  This is still a big mystery to me.  I dread finding out that I have several speeding tickets.  Waze alerts you of the camera-speed-traps, but you don’t really have a way to tell if you are getting a ticket.  Speed limits range from 60-110 Km/hr, but it was not unusual to find yourself doing 140 in a 70, behind other people!
  4. Driving: Thank G-d that you drive on the right side of the road!  Warning, the yellow and white lines are reversed!  Twice, I got in the left lane with a dashed white line in the middle of the road thinking it was two lanes going my way.  Don’t confuse no parking with no-entry signs.  It’s worth taking a few minutes to google the types of signs BEFORE you drive!  In the older towns, there are tons of one-way roads, with seemingly no way to get back to where you just were (Safed).  To make matters worse, building numbers are almost non-existent, often not numeric, and rarely in order.  Street signs are usually in Hebrew, Arabic and English, except for when they are not!
  5. Gas:  This was the most frustrating part of my trip.  We had a rental car for two weeks, a Pugeau (sp?) that hated going up hills, and had a manual shift function (with no clutch!).  We didn’t find out that there are two types of gas: 95 and 98 (octane?), and I think I was supposed to use 98, but I didn’t find out until my last fill up before returning the car.  You definitely want the better gas for getting up the hills, which are very steep and plentiful!  Most of the gas stations do NOT have an ENGLISH button!  This means I always had to ask for help filling up my tank with my credit card.  Sometimes they require the number off the passport ticket you receive upon arrival at the airport, and also the license number of your car.  They rarely ask for a PIN or signature.
  6. Take a picture of your license plate.  This will help you when you are getting gas, but may also help you identify your car if you lose it (don’t laugh.)
  7. Mark on a map, or take a picture of street signs where you park your car in Jerusalem.  You can rarely park close to where you need to be, and it’s easy to get turned around.  (Learned this one the hard way too!)
  8. Parking:  Blue and Red means no parking. Blue and White means pay parking,  but free on holidays.  Always ask about parking, look for parking kiosks, but they often do not have an english button.  Put in 5 NIS per hour, and press the big  button.  If you over pay, it won’t give change, but will continue your time the next day.  Sometimes there is no kiosk (machine), and just a sign with a phone number to pay by phone.  You can’t do this with a pre-paid phone.  Parking tickets are 100NIS, but if God likes you as he does me, you’ll find the money on the ground to pay for your ticket.
  9. Junk Email–Confirmations:  If you use HomeAway.com or Booking.com or something like that, they will send you the instructions on how to find your rental, pick up a key, enter the gate, where to park and everything you need. Use one email for ALL your reservations, and check the Junk, Spam, Clutter or any other boxes that may intercept this critical information.  Also, if there is any way you can give them a (US) number where your voicemail goes to email, that will make things easier.
  10. Language:  English may be the universal language, but Israel does what Israel wants.  It doesn’t seem to matter if there is no way for you to pump gas, park, or read a street sign.  Be ready to stop and ask.  Many helpful people make everything possible.

Travel Tech Tips

Being a techie, that is what I will discuss first, as the right tech can make things seriously easier.

  1. What to buy:  Electrical adapters.  Buy this! (click on image for clearer text)Plugs
  2. What to bring: USB cords, USB power adapters.  Your adapters and laptop power equipment will almost always say 110-230v.  If it only says 110, don’t bring it!  Israel has 220v.  If you bring any electrical equipment that requires 110v, you will need a transformer adapter, which is bulky and heavy.  We did not bring one, and did not need one.  Be sure to not leave your adapters behind when you change your accommodations!
  3. Cell Phone: Put your smart phone in Airplane Mode and only turn on wireless when you need it while traveling, to avoid roaming charges.  Do not take your phone off Airplane mode until you get a local Israeli SIM card in the phone.
  4. As SOON AS POSSIBLE get a SIM card for your smart phone.  This is the most important thing you can do to make finding your way around on day one easier!  For my Droid Turbo, we had to change settings for the network type to GLOBAL, and it took the guy in the store a while to get it working.  Bring an IPhone if you can.  When you remove your US SIM card, tape it to the back of a card in your wallet, so you don’t lose it.
  5. Have a currency converter app.  While we were there, it was about 4 NIS (New Israeli Shekels) to one US Dollar.  The SIM card I got for my droid was about 140 NIS ($35) for one month unlimited talk/text and 3 GB data.  I was there two weeks and used only about 1 GB data with all my mapping and searching.
  6. Skype:  This is great for keeping in touch with family.  Purchasing the call option for Israel was about $16 or so for the month, and allowed me to call Israeli land lines from the US before I left to set up reservations and such.  There is good wireless almost everywhere, and Skype had about a 70% success rate, and re-connects when the call is dropped.

I am happy to report, that we had about a 70% success rate in terms of properly planning and executing the tips above.  Better luck when you go!

Good News

News

Yesterday, on the way out of the Old City, I had to run the key back to the room.  When I was on my way back to the car, a Muslim woman was screaming because she was claiming to being mis-handled by Israeli guards.

I had spotted some camera crews and was in the middle of asking one guy if I could give an American Christian perspective, and was half-way through my explanation (pre-filming) when the unrest broke out and all the media people (two video cameras and at least one with normal cameras)  flocked over to the woman who was yelling, and Israeli guards rushed in to do crowd control.

This comes after speaking to several arabs and jews alike who complain the the media covers nothing but violence, and that most of the population wants peace and truth in reporting.   One news crew crew was from the netherlands.  After my challenging them not to just air the “bad news”, they interviewed me and I got to say the following.  Pray that it is aired somewhere!:

That it is clear that all the tension in the city is due to pride and religion.

That Jesus came to deal harshly with both, and bring God to “Tabernacle” within us, in the form of the Holy Spirit.  He spoke against the religion of his day that still causes all the conflict today.

That man does not have to do any religious acts to win God’s approval.  He loves us just as we are, and our sins are paid for.

That although Jerusalem is beautiful and interesting, it is not a “holy site” for Christians, because all that stands today is what was built during the Crusades, it is really a museum for the Crusade architecture.  We don’t get any “closer to God b

Bad Day according to Chris (PG-13)

WARNING:  do not let your children read this.  This is Chris telling it how it really was.

OK, so yesterday was so freaking bad that I had to stuff my desire to quit and “just keep swimming….”  What was an edgy but exciting challenge for me was emotionally devastating for the girls, and since it is my job to not only take care of them, but make them FEEL taken care of, it was a really really bad failure of a day.

The truth is, for me, I was fine.  I enjoy the adventure, the new experiences, and although ultra-conservative pilgrim-Quaker-Lincoln looking people creep me out when they gather in an angry herd, I really did not feel like anyone was going to hurt us at any time.

Getting into the old city was quite an adventure.  Turns out, it’s not normally like it was last night.  Last night and today were the most holy days of the year, pretty much and the arabas and Jews seem to hate each other, except when there’s a common goal, like taking the money of the tourists!  Let me rephrase that.  The Arabs seem to hate the Jews, and the Jews don’t seem to like anyone…. anyway, I digress.  If I had a breaking point, it would be when I realized that I was not going to be able to continue driving up the steep, narrow alley that I took the car up while trying to escape the children of the corn.  Fortunately, I was able to back the car out, and get it out of their gathering without getting stoned.

Upon arrival at the Dung gate,  (at the Old City where our room is) I had a nice chat with an Israeli gate guard who was from Michigan.  Nice guy.  Turns out they have our really old M-16s, not even the A-2’s that I used in my USMC training.  We basically walked into and through the wailing wall area with all our stuff on the way to our room, and had to press through an angry mob and convince the Jewish military guys to let us get to our hostel.  Our bedroom has an exterior door which remains locked, but is literally 10 feet from the Chain Gate, which only Muslims can use.  There were angry scuffles outside our door for a good part of the night, fortunately, I brought ear plugs for all, so I put the fam to bed and headed out for a tour with two British guys, Andy and Christopher, who were kind enough to take me around and explain things to me.  We got Kabobs outside the Damascus gate, walked past the New Gate, stopped at an ATM, and eventually got over to the Dung Gate *about 2 miles later) so I could get the rest of the stuff we needed out of the car.  Unfortunately, the guards would not let me into the wailing wall area with my pillows and bags, they simply told me to go around, with no explanation of how that would work.  I “accidentally” found the quickest way back to the room and was in bed by 1am.

I felt victory.  I got over my apprehension, got my bearings, and managed to piss off a lot of people in the process without knowing it… mostly my wife and kids, who finally stopped crying mid morning today.

Haifa-Megiddo-Nazareth-MedSea

Today was a nice slow start… we left the apartment around 10AM and went for a swim at the beach.

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The water was AMAZING – lots of fish to see – we swam out past the masses of people and had a really nice time.  The water in the Mediterranean is saltier than the Atlantic & we effortlessly floated around, looking down at what there was to see below.  Going under to get a better view of the fish was a challenge – but fun.

We worked our way slowly in to shore over a very rocky bottom & found several really beautiful unoccupied shells.

After a quick shower-up we drove to Nazareth only to find out the next tour in English was 2.5 hours away, so we drove to Megiddo and walked around there.  Super cool history dating back thousands of years BC.

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Megiddo was built & destroyed 25 times & has 25 different layers of building/excavation. (everything above the wood in the picture below is renovation, but everything below it was original.)

EmmaSolomonEra

Megiddo

what’s left of the siloMegiddoSilo

 

The top layer is from the time of King Solomon – what you see at the top of the picture below was the city gate during his time…what’s at the bottom of the picture is 150 years before.

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part of the stables & Solomon’s chariot housing still remains.  All you horse lovers, they were well cared for in private stables with their own mangers (feeding troughs)…

SolomonStables1

SolomonStables2

yee-haw, y’all…

NaefCharioteers

The coolest part (literally) for us was the steps & tunnel leading to their water source that lay outside the city walls.

20150926MigiddoWaterSourceEntrance 20150926MegiddoWaterSource

186 steps down…

in a narrow shaft and then a tunnel to the spring.  (Sue, you’d have stayed at the top for this one)

TunnelsOfMegiddo2

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and then 80-some-odd steps out…

MegiddoSpringExit

Megiddo is noted in the Bible as the location of the Last Battle … you may know it as Armageddon.  here’s a shot of the valley:

ValleyOfMegiddo

Nazareth Village was very informative & fun.  They had people dressed in “time period” clothing and performing tasks that would have happened in Nazareth in Jesus’ day.

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OldNazareth

Emma got to play the farmer, we met the ‘shepherd’ and his sheep and saw carpentry, a kitchen & the weaver.

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Carpentry

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here’s an olive tree ‘doing it’s thing…putting out shoots…the root word in Hebrew had ‘Naz’ in it relating both to Nazarath & Jesse’s (father of King David) father…wish i could remember all the details he told us about…truly amazed at how God sets things up.

20150926OldOlivetree2

OffShootNazareth

I think the winepress & olive press were my favorite, as our guide explained how each was used & we even had a human ‘mule’ work the olive press.  (while the guide hee-hawed for him… awesome)

Wine press (done with feet…)

WineVat EmmaInWinepress

 

Olive press… 4 part process.

20150926OliveCrushBoys 20150926OliveCruchZach 20150926OlivePress3

 

We did see donkeys there, but they were the lazy, hang-out-under-the-olive-trees kind.   They did oblige & pose for pictures too.

20150926Donkey

There was a tomb, which was authentic, but not the one Jesus was in (of course…this is Nazareth)

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and a synagogue, which was really cool.  In there, our guide picked up a Torah scroll & recalled the time Jesus read in the Synagogue from Isaiah.

20150926Temple20150926TempleScroll

 

We then all got a gift of an oil lamp…so our ‘light may so shine before men.’😉

we learned that the paved roads in nazerath were forged by the treds of mules over the many, many years..and as they ‘zig-zag’ uphill to make it possible to ascend with a load, the streets are CRAZY steep & curvy… San Francisco’s got nothing on Nazarath!  (these pictures really don’t do it justice)

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We then took a drive north up the coast, did a ‘quick’ grocery stop and found a picnic place to watch the sunset.  WOW.  I don’t think there is a better word for it than PERFECT.

TheBeachChrisPicked

EmmaAtSunset

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Our picnic…

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EmmaAtSunset

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Back to Haifa, the girls played on the playground right across the street from the apartment, met 2 local boys who spoke broken English, then went and got gelato…

The boys chased us down to get our Skype number.  Emma makes friends everywhere!

And the finishing touch… we found a hedgehog just hanging out in the courtyard of our apartment building (along with the cats…)

hedghog1

Shalom.

Sept 26, 8:30 am

Kati and I are talking about what to do today….

Beach, Nazareth (with “biblical lunch” in Nazareth village), Megiddo, and then beach.  Hope you all have a nice day as well!

I just wanted to PRAISE GOD for how kind he has been to us during this trip.  He answered all our prayers except for one (that it would rain in Safed during the night).  It is not short of miraculous that Emma’s bronchial and stomach issues all cleared up before we got on the first plane, that we made the last flight with literally not a minute to spare, that we found lunch, food and our first place to stay by 3 pm when the whole town shut down, that we have enjoyed all the major sites we were hoping to see so far, that we got into our present apartment late (on time for us) with a woman owner who speaks not a lick of English, that we found markets open on the sabbath (or found them at all), that we are two blocks from a beautiful mediterranean beach…..

It reminds me of that part of the passover celebration where we recite, “If God had only delivered us from Egypt, it would have been enough.  If he had only parted the sea, it would have been enough, if he had only fed us in the desert, it would have been enough, if he had only…..

He is a very generous God.  He is a GREAT DADDY WHO LOVES to GIVE GREAT GIFTS!  When Emma asks over and over again for something that we hope to do, and in so doing misses the current blessing, I explain to her that I have heard her request.  Enjoy what is.  What is coming will be great, because your Daddy loves to give you great things.

Things I thought were cool.

This guy (both of them)

WeAreBrothers

This door.

CoolDoor

This fuzzy thing.

furrything

The elephant in the rock (as seen by me-Chris)

elephant

 

Emma saw a bigger elephant!

EmmaElephant

And Lastly, how many questions I get from jews on what is “written” on my arm:

word

Even though Danny Silk’s signature has long since washed away, I believe it is just as powerful. 

When they ask, I say, what does it mean to you?  They have a tough time because this word, pronounced daw-var’ (or daw-baw’ depending on your source) is the root of “da-ber” which means “said” or “speech”.   So they usually tell me, “thing” or that it should be the newer word.

So I tell them what I have already posted here: that it means “WORD”, or action, command, decree, oracle, thing, action, and is used throughout the old testament everywhere God carried out his promise to his people, to save, sacrifice, or fulfill his promises.  Then I tell them that to me, this is JESUS in the old testament, because “In the beginning, the WORD was God, and the word was with God,… the WORD became flesh and dwelt among us.”

I haven’t seen any conversions, yet, but I have been able to plant a bunch of seeds!

Dunked

Spring

This afternoon, we visited the old graveyard, a spring, a newer (historical-looking graveyard, and it looks like the current graveyard is far in the distance.

The spring is called Ari’s Mikveh.  Google it.  Signs outside warn “men only” but don’t do you any good if you don’t read Hebrew.  Fortunately, I went in alone.

The spring is apparently used for healing and atonement of sins.

Spring1

It must be because of the holiday, only three boys were in there, in their underwear (so I had them get out of the picture).

Spring2

No idea what this says.

Spring3

And here is the spring.  It is cold, and about chest deep with a finished bottom.

I was instructed to dunk 7 times by the boys, which I did. (Hey, who can’t use more healing and atonement?)

From Emma’s Point of View

Wow Israel is amazing!!!

I was told about a tunnel… we’re still looking for it!

EmmaExploringSafedFort

 

GirlsAndCemetaryCat

We found a really sweet cat definitely wild. He was lying in a water fountain looking right at us…ok we couldn’t resist! I mean he was orange–seriously–I bet you couldn’t either! 😀

EmmaOnRoof

In Israel all the roofs are flat, so I decided to sit on the roof.  Dad came up too. We watched the sun set and it was amazing!

(posted by Emma)

 

Walks last night

Emma and I went out twice last night,EandMe once before bed, and once at 2 am, which is really 7pm for you.  We looked for the moon, at the stars, and marveled at the quietude of this place.

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We found a lovely park at the top of the hill (in the mountains).  It used to be a fort built during the crusades, but was largely destroyed during an earthquake in 1830-something that destroyed the whole town.  Turns out the town was rebuild from the stones of the old fort, which is why there is very little fort left!

EmmaAtTopof Safed

Wakey Wakey

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It’s 4:16 am where you are, 11:16 am here.  Magen and Emma just woke up, thanks to some awful noise being broadcast, or a broken piece of machinery that won’t stop, I can’t figure it out, but it sounds demonic.

We have an abundant supply of food to get us through the day, and a scarce supply of dishes to eat them on.  Better than camping though!

FoodDay1

 

We plan on walking around to various local sites, as no one is driving (or doing anything visible!)  I’ll post again after my second coffee.

 

Jewish Holydays

 

I have set my mind to not let any thought enter of the possible inconveniences that may occur because of our travel during these holidays.  I will instead “soak up” the experience, and thank God that so many of the requirements of the law don’t apply to us gentile believers…. though Sabbath and siestas always sounded good to me!

Here are the ones that will be going on while we are there:

Holiday Dates
Yom Kippur W
Sukkot , 2015 M‑Tu
, 2015 W‑Su
Shmini Atzeret M
Leil Selichot Sep 24, 2016 Sa